This installation is for a HO-Scale Walthers Proto 2000 E7A using a TCS WOW101-KA-Diesel Decoder and was performed by TCS.
Note: This unit happened to be factory sound equipped. The basis of this install would apply to the DC version as well.
HO-Scale Walthers Proto 2000 E7A prior to WOWDiesel-EMD-KA decoder installation
HO-Scale Walthers Proto 2000 E7A prior to WOWDiesel-EMD-KA decoder installation.
In order to install the decoder we must first remove the shell.
First unclip the pilot from the locomotives chassis. This is easily done by pulling one of the sides out and away from the rest of the locomotives shell.
Next, carefully pull the shell off of the locomotives chassis to reveal the factory sound setup.
With the shell off, we can now see the factory sound setup. We also discovered a loose screw from one of the speaker baffles under the factory sound decoder.
To get the install started first unplug all the JST connections from the factory sound board. Next, remove the two screws that secure the board to the locomotives chassis.
Next, remove the four screws that secure each speaker and its baffle. Remove the baffles and speakers completely, but leave the gaskets.
In our install, we used two of our 28mm WOWSpeakers and installed them differently for clear and vibrant sound.
With the speakers and baffles removed, we can now desolder all the JST connectors.
At this point, we also removed the two screws that secure the cab insert and the insert itself. This is required to work on rewiring the front lights.
Next, we removed the front light board. This is done by removing the two screws. Make sure to set these aside as they will be resued later.
With the light board removed, we can now desolder all the factory lighting and wire the LEDs with the leads from the new WOWDiesels 9-Pin JST harness.
This lighting board was wired from the factory for many models and therefore many other lighting features not on this particular model.
This is why there are extra wires attached to the light board
In our install, we wired the light board like so:
Factory Wire Color: TCS Wire Color:
White Not Needed
Blue White (needs resister added)
Left Yellow Green
Green Not Needed
Right Yellow Green (use jumper to left yellow)
With the front light board complete, we can now work on mounting and wiring our speakers.
Keeping the gasket in place, we set the speaker in place and carefully glued and sealed it. Hot glue worked great for this as it has a quick setup time and provides a good seal.
Make sure that when gluing and sealing the speaker in place, that you do not cover up any of the felt on the rearside of the speaker.
Underneath this felt are ports which allow back audio produced to exit the speaker. Covering of these ports will greatly decrease the volume and clarity of this speaker.
Repeat this procedure for the second speaker.
Once the speakers are installed, we then wired them in series and used a 2-Pin Micro Connector with purple wires (Item #1522) for each connection.
With the speakers mounted and wired, we can now re-mount the front light board and cab insert.
Next, complete the motor lead and pick up lead solder connections. Make sure to insulate these connections with some 3/64" heat shrink tubing (Item #1320).
Next, we used some double-sided tape to mount the WOWDiesel Decoder and KA2 to the chassis.
Then we used some 1/2" Kapton Tape (Item # 1304) to secure the wires to the chassis and keep them from any pinch points and from causing any unwanted noise.
With all three components mounted, we can now close up the locomotive and reinstall the front pilot.
You have now installed a TCS WOWDiesel-EMD-KA decoder into your HO-Scale Walthers Proto 2000 E7A.
Important Soldering Tip
Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. It will damage it. Use only Rosin core solder approved for electronics use.
We recommend to use only Kester "44" rosin core, SN63PB37, .015" diameter, part number 24-6337-0007.
This can be ordered from Techni-Tool under Techni-Tool part number 488SO157
Other solder tips
When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire