This installation is for a HO-Scale Atlas RS-3 using a TCS WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1 with built in Keep Alive and ATL-SH1 WOWspeaker kit.
HO-Scale Atlas RS-3 prior to WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1, and ATL-SH1 installation.
To start off this install, we must first remove the front and rear couplers and their housings. Once that is complete, the shell will lift off of the chassis.
Do this by holding the fuel tank with one hand and lifting the shell off by pressing up underneath the end platforms with your other hand.
With the shell off, we can now remove the factory light board. First remove any wire clips and disconnect the wires from the board.
PLEASE NOTE: All the wires have been detached prior to taking the above photo.
Once the wires are loose, the factory light board can easily be unclipped from the motor mount.
Now with the factory light board removed, we can now clip in the AK-MB1.
Next, solder your motor and rear(right in above picture) pickup leads to the AK-MB1.
With the AK-MB1 mounted, we can now solder some wire leads to our speaker and place our speaker inside the ATL-SH1 speaker housing.
Run the front track pick up wires through the openings and screw the speaker housing down inplace of the original weight.
Next, solder the front pick up and speaker leads to the AK-MB1.
Note: You will need to shorten the original two weight screws by a 1/4". This can be done with machine screw cutters or a rotary tool.
Next, we can attach leads to our rear 3mm LED and secure it down in the channel on the rear weight.
Make sure to insulate the LED leads from each other as well as the weight.
In our install, we used a 3mm Sunny White LED (Item 1288).
For the installers convenience, all lighting funtions feature onboard current limiting resistors on the motherboard. There is no need to add resistors
in series with the LED they are on the motherboard.
Next, we can attach a SMD LED to the front light. In our install, we used a Sunny White LED (Item 1417) and glued it to the front light optic with some CA glue (super glue).
After attaching the SMD LED to the optic, we can now solder our leads to the front headlight pads on the AK-MB1.
Lastly, we need to plug in our WOW121 decoder.
With all three main components mounted, we can now close up the locomotive and reinstall the coupler assemblies.
Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage or foul the installation.
You have now installed a TCS WDK-ATL-SH1 WOWKit featuring the WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1 Mother Board, and ATL-SH1 speaker and housing into your HO-Scale Atlas RS-3.
Important Soldering Tip
Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.
TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.
You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775
Other solder tips
When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire