This installation is for a HO-Scale Proto 2000 FA1.
HO-Scale Proto 2000 FA1 shown prior to installation.
To start off this install, we must first remove the rear coupler screws and this housing.
With the coupler removed, while gently pulling outwards along each side of the frame, lift the shell off of the frame.
Take care with the handrails as you lift off the shell so they don't break.
The Life Like Proto 2000 FA1 shown with the shell off.
Remove the wires from the original lighting board and then remove the 5 screws highlighted above in red.
Remove the board from the chassis. Save the screw holding the track pickup to the frame and the front one found under the front light tube for reuse.
Shown ready for the RTR-MB1 motherboard. Trim, tin or lengthen the wires as necessary.
Next, to facilitate a surface for the new components, clip or file off flush the small post on the rear weight highlighted above in red.
Using double sided foam tape, mount the AS-MB2 to the frame as shown above.
Next, using the same tape, mount the KA3 to the frame/ Solder the wire leads to the motherboard according to the included wiring diagram.
Finally, with the 25mm x 14mm WOWSound speaker inserted into the UNIV-SH4-C enclosure, secure this assembly to the frame using the same tape.
Solder these leads to the AS-MB2 according to the included wiring diagram.
If your speaker enclosure installation covers the portholes on the enclosure, we recommend adding new port hole(s) similar to the original porting. Be sure that the new portholes are the same size and amount of the original and are vented freely into the locomotive We have found introducing a port of the correct size greatly increases the volume and sound quality of the installation. Too much or too little porting decreases the sound quality.
To access and replace the original bulbs with LED's, carefully separate the top half of the front light tube along the line highlighted above in red.
You might need to break a slight glue bond to do so. Once this is apart, inset the wired LED into the channel and secure the assembly back together.
Shown reassembled with the LED in place and reinstalled.
TCS motherboards include on board current limit resistors for LED use. There is no need to apply external resistors for LED use.
For the best sound possible and to allow the sound to escape the shell, we found it beneficial to create air holes in the rear fan assembly.
To do so, very carefully remove the rear fan cover.
With the cover removed, rotate the blades to the right and drill 3ea 1/8" holes as shown above.
Rotate these blades again to the left to conceal the holes and reattach the cover screen. Place a small drop of model glue on the the top of the fan blade shaft center to
secure the fans in this position and prevent movement that might compromise the sound quality.
NOTE: We found when assembling this unit that the motherboard where we placed it interfered with the shell mounting screw. As a result, we lifted the speaker and reset the motherboard a little further back and replaced the speaker back down. This corrects the installation and functions perfectly.
Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord.
Now you can close up the locomotive and reinstall the coupler assembly. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage
or foul the installation. Your Life Like Proto 2000 FA1 is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!
Important Soldering Tip
Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. Over time, the acidic properties of liquid or paste flux will begin eating away at the fiberglass PCB and will damage it. Use only Rosin-core solder or no-clean flux approved for electronics use.
TCS recommends the use of Kester "44" Sn63 Pb37, .015" diameter Rosin-core solder. Kester part number 24-6337-0007.
You can order this solder from the following retailers:
Digikey - PN:KE1110-ND
Techni-Tool - PN:488SO6775
Other solder tips
When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire
In order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, we recommend lacing the wires into a bundle using lacing cord. Lacing cord is a wax impregnated string used for wire bundling and making harnesses. There are many choices of lacing cord available from Digikey www.digikey.com.
We use part number 802534B BK032-ND