Bachmann Graham Farish Class 66 Diesel

Scale:
N Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

M1



TCS M1 Decoder Installation for N-Scale Bachmann Graham Farish Class 57 or 66 Diesel.

CAUTION!!!  CAUTION!!!  CAUTION!!!  CAUTION!!!  CAUTION!!!



There is a potential problem with the motor lead shorting out and frying decoders on this engine.

Before our repairs we made.  The motor lead is in contact with the frame.  There is some paint of some sort put on the frame as a precaution from the motor lead shorting out but unfortunately as the locomotive goes down the track and the motor moves some the lead rubs through the paint and shorts to the frame.  As a result, it is possible for this locomotive to run properly for some period of time and then to suddenly short out.  We suggest that you check your loco to see if it is touching the frame whether it works or not.
There is a potential problem with the motor lead shorting out and frying decoders on this engine. Before our repairs we made. The motor lead is in contact with the frame. There is some paint of some sort put on the frame as a precaution from the motor lead shorting out but unfortunately as the locomotive goes down the track and the motor moves some the lead rubs through the paint and shorts to the frame. As a result, it is possible for this locomotive to run properly for some period of time and then to suddenly short out. We suggest that you check your loco to see if it is touching the frame whether it works or not.


After re-aligning and adding kapton tape.

In order to fix the problem I had to reflow the solder joint where the lead is connected to the circuit board and then I lined the lead up so that it wouldn't short out with the frame.  I also added kapton tape to the frame as an added precaution to keep things from shorting out.  If you are uncomfortable with trying to reflow the motor lead you could clip the lead off of the circuit board and run a wire from the board to the motor.  We don't recommend this, because even though it would be easier than reflowing the lead there is also risk of much more damage being done.  If you do choose to solder a wire in this manner, just be aware that if you get too much heat into the motor you could damage the motor and/or its casing.
After re-aligning and adding kapton tape. In order to fix the problem I had to reflow the solder joint where the lead is connected to the circuit board and then I lined the lead up so that it wouldn't short out with the frame. I also added kapton tape to the frame as an added precaution to keep things from shorting out. If you are uncomfortable with trying to reflow the motor lead you could clip the lead off of the circuit board and run a wire from the board to the motor. We don't recommend this, because even though it would be easier than reflowing the lead there is also risk of much more damage being done. If you do choose to solder a wire in this manner, just be aware that if you get too much heat into the motor you could damage the motor and/or its casing.


Finished in record time!
Finished in record time!



Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. It will damage it. Use only Rosin core solder approved for electronics use. 
We recommend to use only Kester "44" rosin core, SN63PB37, .015" diameter, part number 24-6337-0007.
This can be ordered from Techni-Tool under Techni-Tool part number 488SO157
http://www.techni-tool.com

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire