Atlas S3 Switcher

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

M1



This installation of TCS M1 Decoder is for HO Scale Atlas S3 and was submitted by a TCS Customer

NOTE: This installation was performed before the release of the TCS AS6 decoder. The AS6 is the preferred decoder for this locomotive.
Click here for the updated installation pictures.

This loco runs well with Dither (digital pulse power) setting of CV56=3 and CV57=25. The M1 decoder was hard-wired into the circuit board supplied with the loco, it easily fits because of its small size.  The M1 decoder fits nicely in the cab area.  This installation is similar to the Atlas S1 but it has a newer style light board with Golden White LED.  Important: to remove the shell the cab must be removed first. Remove the cab by gripping it at the bottom on one side and pull it away from the frame while lifting up. After the first side is unhitched do the same to the other side. The cab will lift straight off then. After the cab is off the long hood comes off easily.  Important: there is a 2-56 screw in the bottom of the loco that must be replaced with a nylon 2-56 screw to insulate the motor from the frame. This is important to prevent damage to the decoder. See photo below showing bottom view of the loco regarding this. There are five components on the light board that need to be removed and four locations where a trace needs to be cut.
This loco runs well with Dither (digital pulse power) setting of CV56=3 and CV57=25. The M1 decoder was hard-wired into the circuit board supplied with the loco, it easily fits because of its small size. The M1 decoder fits nicely in the cab area. This installation is similar to the Atlas S1 but it has a newer style light board with Golden White LED. Important: to remove the shell the cab must be removed first. Remove the cab by gripping it at the bottom on one side and pull it away from the frame while lifting up. After the first side is unhitched do the same to the other side. The cab will lift straight off then. After the cab is off the long hood comes off easily. Important: there is a 2-56 screw in the bottom of the loco that must be replaced with a nylon 2-56 screw to insulate the motor from the frame. This is important to prevent damage to the decoder. See photo below showing bottom view of the loco regarding this. There are five components on the light board that need to be removed and four locations where a trace needs to be cut.


In modifying the board, these five diodes need to be removed first.
In modifying the board, these five diodes need to be removed first.


Next, using a small blade or Dremel, scratch or 'cut' across the four traces as shown above.
Next, using a small blade or Dremel, scratch or 'cut' across the four traces as shown above.


Connect the track power pickups to where the largest Diode was removed.
Solder the M1 according to the included wiring diagram.
Connect the track power pickups to where the largest Diode was removed. Solder the M1 according to the included wiring diagram.


Due to the tendency of the rivet holding the motor tab to the gray wire pad to grow weak we would advise soldering the gray wire directly to the top motor tab to avoid intermittent or non-existent connections with the motor.
Due to the tendency of the rivet holding the motor tab to the gray wire pad to grow weak we would advise soldering the gray wire directly to the top motor tab to avoid intermittent or non-existent connections with the motor.


To prevent movement of the wire leads, secure them with Kapton tape.
To prevent movement of the wire leads, secure them with Kapton tape.


Lastly, solder the remaining track pick up leads as shown above.
Lastly, solder the remaining track pick up leads as shown above.





Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. It will damage it. Use only Rosin core solder approved for electronics use. 
We recommend to use only Kester "44" rosin core, SN63PB37, .015" diameter, part number 24-6337-0007.
This can be ordered from Techni-Tool under Techni-Tool part number 488SO157
http://www.techni-tool.com

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire