This installation is for a HO-Scale Atlas RS-1 using a TCS WOW121-Diesel Decoder, AK-MB1 Motherboard with built in Keep Alive® and UNIV-SH4-C WOWSpeaker kit.
HO-Scale Atlas RS-1 prior to installation.
To start off this install, we must first remove the front and rear couplers and their housings. With the couplers removed apply a gentle squeeze to the shell and lift the shell off of the frame. Take care to release the handrails as you lift off the shell so they don't break.
With the shell off, we can now remove the factory light board. First, remove any wires from the board.
Once the wires are loose, the factory light board can easily be removed from the motor mount.
Now with the factory light board removed, we can now attach the AK-MB1.
With the AK-MB1 in place, solder the motor and track pickup wires according to the included wiring diagram.
In this installation, the forward light tube needs to be trimmed to allow space to install the speaker housing.
Using the light tube mitre box, this becomes an easy task. Simply insert the tube as shown in the box.
Using the provided saw, Carefully cut through the tube.
The result is a perfectly cut to length light tube, ready to install.
With the cut light tube placed back into the shell, using a dab of hot glue, mount the speaker assembly right behind the front tube in the top of the shell.
NOTE: You must be very careful to avoid getting glue on the speaker cone. Glue on the speaker will ultimately cause it to produce no sound and fail.
If your speaker enclosure installation covers the portholes on the enclosure, we recommend adding new port hole(s) similar to the original porting. Be sure that the new portholes are the same size and amount of the original and are vented freely into the locomotive We have found introducing a port of the correct size greatly increases the volume and sound quality of the installation. Too much or too little porting decreases the sound quality.
Next, using another dab of hot glue, mount the LED directly to the top of the light tube. The light will easily translate into the tube and
through to the front light lens. Solder these lighting leads to the motherboard according to the included wiring diagram.
We have found that LED light output is brightest when shinning directly into the end of the light tube, but in some circumstances they may be placed along the length
of the tube as well with satisfactory results. In doing so, white light LED output would be least affected, while non white LED output will be more affected by placement.
You can now plug in your WOW121-Diesel decoder.
Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord.
Now you can reassemble the shell and couplers and your Atlas RS-1 is ready to roll!
Important Soldering Tip
Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. It will damage it. Use only Rosin core solder approved for electronics use.
We recommend to use only Kester "44" rosin core, SN63PB37, .015" diameter, part number 24-6337-0007.
This can be ordered from Techni-Tool under Techni-Tool part number 488SO157
Other solder tips
When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire
In order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, we recommend lacing the wires into a bundle using lacing cord. Lacing cord is a wax impregnated string used for wire bundling and making harnesses. There are many choices of lacing cord available from Digikey www.digikey.com.
We use part number 802534B BK032-ND