Life Like Proto 2000 E7 / E8 / E9

Scale:
HO Scale


This installation uses the following decoder:

DP5



This installation documentation shows multiple options for the HO Scale LifeLike Proto 2000 E7. This installation uses the TCS DP5 decoder, T1A decoder with E7 harness, or M4P-1" decoder, and was performed by TCS.

TCS recommends using the DP5 decoder for simple plug-and-play installation.





The pictures above show the locomotive prior to the decoder installation.
The pictures above show the locomotive prior to the decoder installation.


Picture of the locomotive with its shell taken off and original light board in place.
Picture of the locomotive with its shell taken off and original light board in place.


Remove the"dummy" plug from the socket, then plug in the DP5 decoder so that Pin #1 of the decoder lines up with Pin #1 of the socket. Pin #1 will be designated with a "1" or a small arrow/chevron. This is all that is required for the DP5 installation unless you re-wire the Mars light.
Remove the"dummy" plug from the socket, then plug in the DP5 decoder so that Pin #1 of the decoder lines up with Pin #1 of the socket. Pin #1 will be designated with a "1" or a small arrow/chevron. This is all that is required for the DP5 installation unless you re-wire the Mars light.


In order to install the T1A decoder, we recommend using the E7 Wiring harness. Into the 8-pin socket, install the E7 harness as shown in the image above. Note that in order to use the Mars light, you must bridge the Green and Yellow wires using solder. The Green and Violet wires on the T1 decoder do not function because the decoder only supports 2 functions. This allows you to use the yellow wire (reverse light output) to control the mars light. By default, when function 0 is on the mars light will come on in reverse. For T1 decoder only, change CV50 = 0, change CV34= 4. This re maps the yellow wire to button 1 with the Mars light on when in forward direction.
In order to install the T1A decoder, we recommend using the E7 Wiring harness. Into the 8-pin socket, install the E7 harness as shown in the image above. Note that in order to use the Mars light, you must bridge the Green and Yellow wires using solder. The Green and Violet wires on the T1 decoder do not function because the decoder only supports 2 functions. This allows you to use the yellow wire (reverse light output) to control the mars light. By default, when function 0 is on the mars light will come on in reverse. For T1 decoder only, change CV50 = 0, change CV34= 4. This re maps the yellow wire to button 1 with the Mars light on when in forward direction.


Run the E7 harness forward toward the cab. Plug the harness into your decoder and mount the decoder behind the cab as shown above.
Run the E7 harness forward toward the cab. Plug the harness into your decoder and mount the decoder behind the cab as shown above.


Above you can see the T1 decoder with E7 harness installed. Kapton tape was applied to keep the wires neat and in place.
Above you can see the T1 decoder with E7 harness installed. Kapton tape was applied to keep the wires neat and in place.


Shown above is the completed M4P-1" decoder installation. Similarly to the other decoders, simply align Pin 1 of the decoder to Pin 1 of the socket and you are finished. Use button number one to activate the mars light, use button number zero to turn the headlight On/Off.
Shown above is the completed M4P-1" decoder installation. Similarly to the other decoders, simply align Pin 1 of the decoder to Pin 1 of the socket and you are finished. Use button number one to activate the mars light, use button number zero to turn the headlight On/Off.



Important Soldering Tip

Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. It will damage it. Use only Rosin core solder approved for electronics use. 
We recommend to use only Kester "44" rosin core, SN63PB37, .015" diameter, part number 24-6337-0007.
This can be ordered from Techni-Tool under Techni-Tool part number 488SO157
http://www.techni-tool.com

Other solder tips

When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder, the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire