This installation is for a HO-Scale Athearn GP60 using a TCS WOW121-Diesel Decoder, RTR-MB1 Motherboard with Keep-Alive™
and UNIV-SH4-C WOWSpeaker kit by TCS.

This was performed by our friends from DCC Xpress installations.
They offer high quality WOWSound installations for a flat rate complete with free return shipping!
You can find them at:

These items are available in the WDK-ATH-10 which was used for this installation.
RTR-MB1 Motherboard with Keep Alive™ WOW121-Diesel Decoder UNIV-SH4-C Speaker Kit
Click here for more information on the WDK-ATH-10 and the rest of the WOWDiesel Kits line.

Important Soldering Tip:
Please do not use any flux either liquid or paste on the mother board. It will damage it. Use only Rosin core solder approved for electronics use.
We recommend to use only Kester "44" rosin core, SN63PB37, .015" diameter, part number 24-6337-0007.
This can be ordered from Techni-Tool under Techni-Tool part number 488SO157

Athearn GP60 prior to the installation. To begin this installation, carefully grasp the sides of the shell and pull outward
on each side and the shell should lift right off the chassis.


Shown here with the shell removed.


The original lighting will need to be removed. To do this, on the front tab, carefully pry apart the small metal tabs holding it in place and lift it up and out.
We will later use this connection point to facilitate the front track pick up.

Shown with the front lighting assembly removed.

In the next step. we will remove the entire motor assembly. On the bottom of the frame are four plastic buttons. Using a screwdriver or blunt probe, carefully push these buttons in towards the frame to release the motor.

Shown with the motor assembly removed.

With the motor out of the locomotive, remove the plastic tabs from the bottom of the motor.

Next, remove the metal motor power clip found underneath the tabs from the bottom of the motor, being careful to be mindful of the small motor
brush spring underneath that will come out with it.

Bend the raised tabs flat into the metal around it to minimize them and solder the positive (orange) motor lead to the top of this strip.

Reattach the completed metal clip and spring and cover it with Kapton tape to insulate it.

For the second track pick up lead, solder a connection point to the top of each tab as shown above.

To insulate the new motor connections from the frame, place a small strip of Kapton tape on top of the original connection point in the bottom of the frame.
Reinsert the completed motor back onto the frame at this point.

Shown with the motor assembly reinstalled and wired.

To allow for one track pick up lead, solder two connection points to the original front light post.

Detail showing the front track lead connection points soldered.

The RTR-MB1 has a motor pick up clip pre-attatched to the bottom, so mounting it onto the locomotive could not be easier.

Solder the track and motor connections to the RTR-MB1 according to the manual provided with your motherboard. When attaching the wires to the pads, it is not necessary to insert the wires through the holes. We recommend attaching the wires flat on top of the solder pads. 

With the motor and track leads completed, insert the 25mm X 14mm speaker into the UNIV-SH4-C enclosure and using hot melt glue,
mount this assembly into the top rear of the shell. Solder the leads for this speaker onto the RTR-MB1 motherboard as shown above.

If your speaker enclosure installation covers the portholes on the enclosure, we recommend adding new port hole(s) similar to the original porting. Be sure that the new portholes are the same size and amount of the original and are vented freely into the locomotive We have found introducing a port of the correct size greatly increases the volume and sound quality of the installation. Too much or too little porting decreases the sound quality.

NOTE: You must be very careful to avoid getting glue on the speaker cone. Glue on the speaker will ultimately cause it to produce no sound and fail.

Using a dab of hot melt glue, mount LED's in place and solder the leads to the RTR-MB1 according to the included wiring diagram.

We have found that LED light output is brightest when shinning directly into the end of the light tube, but in some circumstances they may be placed along the length
of the tube as well with satisfactory results. In doing so, white light LED output would be least affected, while non white LED output will be more affected by placement.


In order for the shell to refit onto the frame properly in this installation, it is necessary to trim the interior portion of the fan assembly, which drops down inside the shell below the top cap. Using a trimming blade, carefully remove this section as shown above. There are two weights which are found in this top compartment.
One will be removed and the other reinserted in this top section prior to reinstalling the top cap.

Lastly, in order to keep the wires neat and prevent possible shorts, lace the wires into a bundle using lacing cord, which is a wax impregnated string 
used for wire bundling and making harnesses. There are many choices of lacing cord available from Digikey
We use part number 802534B BK032-ND

Now you can close up the locomotive. Be sure to be mindful of wire routing and reassembly of the shell as to not damage 
or foul the installation. Your Athearn GP60 is now WOWSound equipped and ready to roll!

Other solder tips: When stripping wire, only strip a tiny little bit of the insulation. Strip no more then a 1/64 of an inch. When the wire gets tinned with solder the insulation will shrink back more. Try to not expose any more wire then half the length of the solder pad at most. In no case should solder or exposed wire wire ever be outside the boundary of the the solder pad you are attaching a wire to.
Click here for important information on properly Stripping and Tinning wire

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